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TOOLS: Jigsaw, circular saw, block plane, hand drill, cabinet scrapers and assortment of clamps

PLYWOOD: 4 panels of 4 mil (3/16-inch softwood) marine-grade hardwood ply for topside and bulk-heads; 2 panels of 6 rail (?-inch softwood) for bottom and compartment decks.

TRIM WOOD: 60 lineal feet of ?-inch x 2-inch mahogany (fir and spruce are lighter) for inwale and outwale.

EPOXY AND GLASS TAPE: 3 gallons of epoxy with catalyst, plus fillers for thickening epoxy; graphite powder; 60 lineal feet of 3-inch-wide glass tape, plus optional 6-ounce fiberglass cloth for bottom.

If you’re thinking about a do-it-yourself project to keep you busy this summer, consider building this handsome Clark Fork drift beat By following the clear, simple plans (see page 114 for ordering info), a motivated amateur craftsman, working weekends and nights, should be able construct this boat in a month. Start your drifter today and you’ll be floating your local river, casting to rising trout, in no time.

STEP 1
Join the front and back sections of the bottom panel of the boat using an epoxy-glued doubler pad laid over factory edges of the ply panels. Mark stations on the bottom panel for later reference, then sheathe the bottom with glass cloth and apply a graphite and epoxy mixture to the exterior bottom. Secure the panel to the workbench by inserting screws across the midship section.

STEP 2
After the bottom panel is firmly attached to the workbench, use vertical supports to brace up each end of the panel. This helps to maintain the correct amount of rocker and ensure that the bottom panel mates properly with the side panels as they are stitched together.

STEP 3
Attach assembled side panels to the bottom panel by inserting and gradually tightening plastic ties stitched through small holes drilled in the bottom panel and corresponding holes drilled along the side panels.

STEP 4
Clamp and brace front and back bulkheads into position and tack them into place with dabs of thickened epoxy.

Remove clamps and apply continuous beads of epoxy.

STEP 5
Fit and epoxy partial seat bulk-heads into place to reinforce the hull and provide support for the gear trays and midship sliding seat.

Fit the port and starboard gear trays parallel to one another to allow the sliding midship seat to be adjusted for trim when rowing,

STEP 6
Glue the hardwood outwale strip along the outside top edge (sheer line) of the side panel, and epoxy-glue the matching inwale strip onto spacer blocks glued at measured intervals along the inside of the hull. The resulting lightweight and resilient structure provides a base for oarlock sockets and reinforces the sheer line of the hull for rowing and hauling stress.

STEP 7
After applying a shaped bead of thickened epoxy to the interior hull (or chine) seams, all exterior seams are rounded slightly and fiberglass tape is applied to reinforce the seam. Use multiple layers of tape for extra abrasion resistance and strength on hard service boats.

STEP 8
Roll and brush multiple coatings of a mixture of graphite powder and epoxy resin on the bottom to provide a tough, slick surface that allows the boat to be dragged over parking lots, launch ramps and gravel beaches.

The bottom becomes slicker with wear; after each season it can be renewed by scraping the surface and rolling on another coating of the graphite/epoxy resin.

STEP 9
Compartment decks added atop the main bulkheads complete a waterproof storage and emergency flotation space on each end of the hull. They also reinforce the hull sides and provide a work surface or seating for passengers.

Decks may be installed at slight angles for drainage, or fitted flat for seating, and each deck requires individual fitting to compensate for the shape of the bent ply panels.

STEP 10
The middle rowing seat slides fore and aft, supported on each side by the partial bulkheads and gear trays, and is adjustable to trim the boat depending on passengers and loading.

STEP 11
An aggressive non-skid deck surface is required when you’re fishing or rowing in rough water. Colored areas of non-skid can be applied to the plywood by mixing epoxy resin with powder paint, which is rolled or brushed onto appropriate sections of the deck.

Mask appropriate areas and apply colored resin. Remove the masking tape and sprinkle graded masonry sand onto the uncured resin as required. Leave the resin to cure, then vacuum excess sand. After each season the non-skid can be renewed by applying a fresh coating of epoxy resin and shaking on more sand.

STEP 12
For easy access to the waterproof compartments, simple round plastic screw-out ports can be installed in minutes on horizontal or vertical surfaces. Multiple ports can be installed for easier access. The flush fitting ports are made watertight by applying a bead of silicone seal around the perimeter and fastening to the plywood with stainless steel machine screws.